Review covers Monterano Antica, Canale Monterano, Lazio. From Rome it takes 1-2 hours to get to Canale Monterano north of the city, and the remains of the original Borgo that is now Monterano Antica are just a further 10 minutes down the road. The ruins are compact but picturesque and largely dominated by mature trees; this is fine place to share a picnic with small children – places to explore, shade and, key issue on a hot day, a fountain/spring/trough in which to play (with supervision). The ancient ruins are in the Riserva Naturale Regionale Monterano which extends over an area of 10 km2 a couple of km from the modern town down some narrow mainly one-way roads. Follow the road signs – west of the town (Via Monterano alongside the church – Santa Maria Assunta in Cielo - heading downhill). Northern Lazio was where the Etruscans used to live before the rise of the Roman Empire, and you’ll find traces of these original people around the Borgo and elsewhere in the reserve. In more recent times rural people cultivated the land and kept livestock hereabouts – nowadays this is hard and largely unproductive work given the importance of services and tourism in the modern economy. With the decline of small-scale agriculture, the land has been reclaimed by encroaching vegetation/trees typical of the moist Mediterranean climate - such as oak and beech. Where once the original Borgo would have been in open hill country now it is hemmed in by dense tree cover. You can get a feel for the changing landscape by exploring the reserve. Be aware that the paths are steep in places, but the scenic views towards Tolfa and back towards Canale Monterano once you’ve climbed out of the valleys is spectacular. Lots of wildlife around too – badgers, pigs, foxes, etc. – except they’ll hear you coming and keep out of your way. You're unlikely to see them but you may be lucky and find a porcupine quill. What once there was a thriving Borgo – castle that became a fine country house on one side and around it on the other three sides >50 houses leaning one-into-the other around the periphery of the borgo and along a couple of interior streets providing a protected community with two main entry gates – there is now a quiet ghost of a settlement in the woods. Two hundred metres through the Borgo and out the other sided there’s the second of the two ancient sites – the ruins of the Monastery of San Bonaventura; it stands in open land with no tree encroachment. This is the site for the occasional medieval fair wherein local people dress in medieval clothing and celebrate with the traditions of 600 years ago – weaponry, competition, foods, entertainment and that approach/ambience that belies the centuries that have passed. It is also a popular place in which to set the scene for a movie. With Cinecitta a couple of hours away south of Rome – the Italian equivalent of Hollywood - the reserve and the scavi provide an easy-to-access location for all kinds of historical movies. You’d have to be of a certain age to remember ‘Ben Hur’, but many people will remember ‘Gladiator’ (released 2000). One time we caught a movie being made and spend a time watching the action from a distance – WW2 movie with occupying German forces and partisan opposition – uniforms, hand weapons, time-warp country. And about that Borgo then. You park your car, through the gate on foot and follow the track down hill to the Borgo. At the corner to the right where you turn into the Borgo there’s a cave in the hillside – check it out – easy access; and there, in front of you, there’s this gorgeous remnant of the original Roman aqueduct. Photo-time. Better still there’s a pipe delivering water into a concrete trough and overflowing into a drain/marshy area. If it’s hot, the water is … fabulous. Then you can climb the hill track into the Borgo or take the trail to the left and head for the Monastery. Either way, you’re on a circular trip. There was a portable toilet on the trail to the Monastery one time. The castle/palace is a shell of a building; sometimes it is open other times it seems that you can’t access the interior. For best explore both outside and inside; inside climb the steel steps to the gallery, lean out over the rail and explore the views. There’s a seat beneath the trees below where those not seeking that climb can wait for you. Another photo stop. The seat below is a good place from which to examine the Bernini lion statue located high in front of the building, a facsimile of the Baroque ‘Fontana del leone’. The original lion is held securely in Canale Monterano. The Borgo existed through to the end of the 18th century when it was abandoned – after the impact of a malarial epidemic and following the destruction of the Borgo by the French Republican Army. Sit on that bench and ponder your time in this historical aberration – how can you know what it was like 500 years ago? The piazza and all those original houses have long gone, replaced by dense tree cover. The remnants of the two churches remain – the Chiesa di Santa Maria is just a tower - but consider: people from three successive civilizations have previously lived here and left vestiges of their time, place and activities in the ruins around you. The Monastery of San Bonaventura dates from the period of the Renaissance (the same time that the castle became a fine house). The Monastery is also fenced off, but poorly and people were still gaining access. This also is a deteriorating shell of a building: walls with no protection from the elements. There is a large tree growing inside the entrance way. In front of the building there’s an interesting octagonal-shaped fountain (also attributable to Bernini), and this is also a facsimile of the original that was shifted to Canale Monterano >60 years ago. Fortuitously the scavi remains in reasonable condition – slowly being reclaimed by the elements – an interesting glimpse of local history. Take longer than the 2-3 hours required for the scavi and explore further into the reserve. Carry a backpack with drinks and lunch. Wear comfortable walking boots and take a sun hat. Peter Steele 30 July 2020

My family and I were able to visit the ruins of Canale Monterano in Italy. A beautiful National Reserve. There is a fountain in front of the Basilica design Ed by Bernini. It's a beautiful hidden treasure in the shadows of Roma!